If you’re breaking out long after your teens are over, you may need to look beyond your #shelfie for the source of the problem.
Dealing with adult acne can be a never-ending, frustrating process of finding what works. To be clear, the fastest fix for any type of hormonal acne is actually medication prescribed by a doctor, and in case you do have any questions or concerns should talk to your doctor first. Commonly, adult acne is a symptom of an underlying hormone condition. Sometimes it’s just temporary, but more often than not it’s a sign of a hormonal imbalance.
Polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) affects 8% to 13% of reproductive‐aged women and is associated with reproductive and metabolic dysfunction. It’s one of the most common endocrine disorders. Doctors have been taking note of PCOS symptoms since at least the 1700s, and believe that it’s caused by insensitivity to the hormone insulin, yet the underlying reason is still not clear. At least in part, however, it’s genetic.
PCOS has a lot of body-related issues, but for the skin, it can wreak havoc. Besides irregular menstrual cycles and ovulation, weight gain, and thinning hair, one of the most notable symptoms of PCOS is acne. PCOS-related acne tends to flare in areas usually considered hormonally sensitive, such as the jawline, chin, cheeks and even upper neck. But there’s more besides (just) stubborn breakouts that never seem to properly heal. Acanthosis nigricans, skin tags, and abnormal hair growth are all very common, as well as very dry skin and dandruff.
WHY ME?
There are two main reasons why hormonal acne appears: a high level of testosterone and generalized inflammation. PCOS results in an excess of testosterone, DHEA, and insulin, leading to overproduction of oil in the skin, leading to clogged pores, redness, and inflammation. Chronic inflammation forces your immune system to go into overdrive when it comes to fighting the bacteria causing the breakouts. While that will cure the bacteria it also causes damage to the skin pore which then becomes red and painful.
PCOS acne is more chronic and calls for a multi-layered approach. Before you raid the shelves of the nearest drugstore grabbing all the anti-blemish and sebum-control products, remember that skin is the largest organ in your body. While topical treatments do help our skin achieve and maintain that healthy glow, skincare alone will not diminish your PCOS-caused acne.
Prescribed treatments and over the counter medications generally do help, but often they are associated with fairly unpleasant side effects including nausea, vomiting, stomach pain, diarrhoea and loss of appetite. Making a shift to your diet and lifestyle, as well as a gentle but consistent skincare routine come with far less risk, and a lot more benefits for your overall health and happiness.
JUMPSTART HEALTHY CHANGE
Unlike typical hormonal breakouts that may go away with the right products, managing your skin-related issues caused by PCOS often includes major lifestyle changes. Changing your diet is a prerequisite for treating acne. Cutting processed carbs and sugar and introducing more foods that are low in sugar and fat and have a low glycemic index is the first step. Although doctors and scientists still struggle to find an effective cure for PCOS, combined with a well-balanced diet, regular exercise has many benefits in treating the condition. Burning off calories will help you stay a healthy weight as well as build more muscle, which in return decreases your insulin resistance.
While the effectiveness of complementary and alternative approaches remain controversial, any effort to reduce stress, improve the quality of sleep and overall wellbeing can only be of help, not just in minimizing pesky breakouts and helping the skin heal faster but also with mood swings caused by hormonal imbalances. Before you simply wave it off as “those days of the month”, take note that anxiety, distress, depression and eating disorders are all far more common in women with PCOS.
LET’S TALK SKINCARE
Up until recently the options to treat PCOS acne were dated brands with nothing catering to new consumers. Recognizing a gap in the market, brands such as Carbon Theory are here to offer alternatives to medications. Launched in 2018, the brand is known for its acne-curing line-up of cleansing bars, serums, and masks. Simple, natural ingredients and always focusing on performance first, everything they stand for comes back to their somewhat cheeky hashtag #CleanAF.
Just as with your usual hormonal breakouts, it all starts with proper cleansing to remove excess sebum and prevent pores from becoming clogged. Benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid (BHA) are the gold standard for treating acne and are an excellent first line of defense to noticeably reduce breakouts and post-acne marks Both Peter Thomas Roth’s Anti-Aging Cleansing Gel and COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser effectively remove excess oil and deeply yet gently clear the pores.
Healthy skin needs both water and oil. Ideally, you should layer humectants with lots of moisture and then lock in that moisture with occlusives. What we mean by that is that after cleansing you should apply a hydrating toner and follow up with a serum rich in hyaluronic acid. Seal the moisture in with a moisturizer or oil, depending on your skin’s needs. Although it sounds a lot more complicated than it is, finding complementary products is often quite a challenge. To help you navigate, brands such as Glowbiotics with their formulated unique probiotic solutions are a good one-stop-shop for all things PCOS skin.
When it comes to treating PCOS-triggered acne and other skin conditions the most important thing is to always listen to your skin, no matter what. Skincare is inherently personal because no two faces are the same. If you feel something isn’t working, you’re probably right. If you can see and feel the benefits, however, stick to your routine, focus on small progress and give both yourself and your skin time to heal.
What’s your biggest skin concern?
I’m 37 & still breakout. I suffer from cystic and hormonal acne and have tried EVERYTHING. Dermalmd acne serum…. not the standard acne med. It has kept my face CLEAR for months. I have really oily skin and the dermalmd serum handles my acne and oily skin without drying it out. I’ll never use anything else.